J Vineyards Vintage Sparkling Wines: ‘Tis The Season
It's Thanksgiving week. Which means turkeys are to be pardoned, cranberries consumed by the bushel, and sweet potatoes must be mashed. And it also means that it's another great time to pop open a bottle of bubbly. Why wait for New Year's Eve- or even Christmas- when you a nice, balanced bottle of champagne or the American equivalent adds both color and flavor to the festivities.
We've been saving this pair up for a special occasion, but a birthday party served as a proper holiday. J Vineyards 2003 Late Disgorged Vintage Brut is certainly among the finest bottles of California sparkling wine that we've had the privilege to try- it's also not very widely available, and is one of the most expensive we've seen. At $90 a bottle, this is not something that we sipped lightly, and the first impressions weren't actually quite as expected. Bubbles were slow and the nose wasn't the familiar brightness, but as a rose blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, we were ready for a bit of anything on the palate. And what we found was character, far more subtle and worth focus.
Both the '03 and the other J Brut that we mention below are from the Russian River Valley, and anyone who is familiar with New World champagnes will appreciate the classy texture on them both. We served them alone, chilled, but not as cold as your average sparkler might come, and later had some oysters and a bit of cheese to pair. And though neither of them were super-sweet or super-dry, the '03 had an almost bready character that tilted towards but didn't quite become the butteriness that is associated with some chardonnay.
We also tried the J Vineyards 2005 Vintage Brut, a heavier and more direct younger sibling. There was a clear connection, in fact, not least since the blend was basically the same- and the yeast here was more present but without some of the sugars that made for toastiness. Instead, it's a little brighter, a bit more punch and a more immediately appealing nose. The winemakers note the "honeysuckle, pear, and citrus", all of which are certainly applicable. And while the '03 might be somewhat wiser, the lower-priced ($50) 2005 won over the crowd here, winning slightly higher marks among those who found it "addictive", "flexible", and perfect for a widely varied holiday meal. Either way, you're getting lovely bottling and a gift worth sipping.
About the Author
Greg Greg dreamed up the idea for the Truly Network while living in Hawaii, which began with a single site called TrulyObscure. In 2010, when advertisers and readers were requesting coverage beyond the scope of that site, TrulyNet was launched, reaching a broader audience over a variety of niche sites. Formerly the head technology correspondent for the Des Moines Register at age 16, he has since lived and worked in five states and two countries, helping a list of organizations and companies that includes the United States Census Bureau, TripAdvisor, Events Photo Group, Berlitz, and Computer Geeks. He also served as the Content Strategy Manager for HearPlanet, a multi-platform app that has reached over a million users and has been featured in the New York Times, Hemispheres Magazine, National Geographic Adventure, Fox Business News, PC Magazine, and even Apple’s own iPhone ads. Greg has written as a restaurant critic and feature journalist for a number of national and international publications, including City Weekend Magazine, Red Egg Magazine, the Newton Daily News, Capital Change Magazine, and an arm of China Daily, Beijing Weekend. In addition, he has served as a consulting editor for the Foreign Language Press of Beijing, as well as a writer and editor for the George Washington University Hatchet, the school newspaper of his alma mater. Originally from Iowa, Greg is currently living in the West Village of Manhattan.
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